We formalize Italian smocking, an intricate embroidery technique that gathers flat fabric into pleats along meandering lines of stitches, resulting in pleats that fold and gather where the stitching veers. In contrast to English smocking, characterized by colorful stitches decorating uniformly shaped pleats, and Canadian smocking, which uses localized knots to form voluminous pleats, Italian smocking permits the fabric to move freely along the stitched threads following curved paths, resulting in complex and unpredictable pleats with highly diverse, irregular structures, achieved simply by pulling on the threads. We introduce a novel method for digital previewing of Italian smocking results, given the thread stitching path as input. Our method uses a coarse-grained mass-spring system to simulate the interaction between the threads and the fabric. This configuration guides the fine-level fabric deformation through an adaptation of the state-of-the-art simulator, C-IPC. Our method models the general problem of fabric-thread interaction and can be readily adapted to preview Canadian smocking as well. We compare our results to baseline approaches and physical fabrications to demonstrate the accuracy of our method.

翻译：我们系统形式化了意大利线褶工艺——一种精巧的刺绣技术，通过沿蜿蜒的线迹路径将平面织物收拢成褶，使织物在线迹转向处产生折叠与聚拢效果。与以均匀褶皱搭配彩色绣线为特征的英式线褶、通过局部打结形成蓬松褶皱的加式线褶不同，意大利线褶允许织物沿曲线路径在线材上自由滑动，仅通过拉扯线材即可形成结构高度多样且不规则的复杂褶皱。本文提出一种新颖的数字预览方法，能以线迹路径为输入预测意大利线褶效果。该方法通过粗粒度质点-弹簧系统建模线材与织物的交互作用，并借助自适应改进的先进仿真器C-IPC驱动细粒度织物形变。该模型可泛化处理织物-线材交互的通用问题，并易于扩展至加式线褶的预览。我们通过基线方法对比与实物制作验证，证明该方法的精确性。