Recent years have witnessed the Open Radio Access Network (RAN) paradigm transforming the fundamental ways cellular systems are deployed, managed, and optimized. This shift is led by concepts such as openness, softwarization, programmability, interoperability, and intelligence of the network, all of which had never been applied to the cellular ecosystem before. The realization of the Open RAN vision into practical architectures, intelligent data-driven control loops, and efficient software implementations, however, is a multifaceted challenge, which requires (i) datasets to train Artificial Intelligence (AI) and Machine Learning (ML) models; (ii) facilities to test models without disrupting production networks; (iii) continuous and automated validation of the RAN software; and (iv) significant testing and integration efforts. This paper poses itself as a tutorial on how Colosseum - the world's largest wireless network emulator with hardware in the loop - can provide the research infrastructure and tools to fill the gap between the Open RAN vision, and the deployment and commercialization of open and programmable networks. We describe how Colosseum implements an Open RAN digital twin through a high-fidelity Radio Frequency (RF) channel emulator and end-to-end softwarized O-RAN and 5G-compliant protocol stacks, thus allowing users to reproduce and experiment upon topologies representative of real-world cellular deployments. Then, we detail the twinning infrastructure of Colosseum, as well as the automation pipelines for RF and protocol stack twinning. Finally, we showcase a broad range of Open RAN use cases implemented on Colosseum, including the real-time connection between the digital twin and real-world networks, and the development, prototyping, and testing of AI/ML solutions for Open RAN.

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