Reconstructing realistic, physically plausible garments from a single image remains a fundamental challenge. Template-free methods capture surface geometry but lack explicit sewing structure for simulation; while programmatic systems are simulation-ready but constrained by predefined templates. This reveals a fundamental representation gap between geometric reconstruction and structured garment construction. We present PatternGSL, a structured garment representation in the form of a template-free and learnable specification language that encodes complete sewing patterns, including panel boundaries, parameterized seams, and explicit stitch topology, in a compact and standardized form. PatternGSL preserves the physical rigor of pattern-based models while removing template dependence, elevating sewing structure as a first-class target for generative modeling. We further propose a vision-language framework that predicts PatternGSL specifications directly from a single image and decodes them into garments using lightweight deterministic validity handling, without optimization-based refinement or manual cleanup. In addition, we introduce PatternGSLData, the first large-scale image-to-GSL paired dataset comprising 300K samples with complete sewing pattern annotations, enabling supervised VLM training for structured garment reconstruction. Experiments demonstrate improved pattern accuracy over prior baselines, explicit sewing-structure recovery, reliable cloth simulation, and pattern-level editing through the same deterministic decoding pipeline. Code and data-processing scripts will be released at https://github.com/PatternGSL/PatternGSL.

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